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Old Navy Jeans Implosion

Investigating the Fast Fashion Crisis Through Old Navy Jeans

In November 2023, Circular Philadelphia’s textiles working group undertook an implosion of Old Navy jeans as a way to investigate the fast fashion system and its impact locally, nationally and globally. The implosion was led by Circular Philadelphia partner Trash Academy and included fashion industry professionals, educators, resale experts, circular economy professionals, collection and sorting experts, Philadelphia residents, activists and scientists. The implosion visual below is the result of that implosion and a year’s worth of follow-on research, vetting and design.

Old Navy Jeans Implosion Poster front

Old Navy Jeans Implosion poster back

Bibliography:

Acumin Research and Consulting. 2024. “US Denim Jeans Market Size – Industry, Share, Analysis, Trends and Forecast 2024 – 2032.” Acumenresearchandconsulting.com.  https://www.acumenresearchandconsulting.com/us-denim-jeans-market

Biron, Bethany. 2020. “Gap canceled its spinoff of Old Navy, but it’s still one of America’s most beloved brands. Here’s a look at its rise to be a retail powerhouse.” Business Insider. https://www.businessinsider.com/old-navy-rise-and-fall-photos-history-2020-1

Bloomberg News. 2023. “Secretive Shein Founders Build $40 Billion Fortune in Rapid Fashion.” Bloomberg.com. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2022-12-12/secretive-shein-founders-build-40-billion-fortune-in-rapid-fashion

Chan, Emily. 2023. “Billions of Clothes Are Produced Every Year. Why Do We Still Not Know Exactly How Many?” British Vogue. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/how-many-clothes-produced

Chen, Xuandong, Hifza A. Memon, Yuanhao Wang, Ifra Marriam, and Mike Tebyetekerwa. 2021. “Circular Economy and Sustainability of the Textile Industry.” National Institutes of Health. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8257395/

Drycleaning Institute of Australia Ltd. n.d. “International Fair Claims Guide for Consumer Textiles Products.” Drycleaning Institute of Australia. Accessed November 15, 2024. https://www.drycleanersweb.com.au/media/website_pages/consumers/fair-claims-guide/fair_claims_guide_0.pdf

Fashion United. n.d. “Global Fashion Industry Statistics.” Accessed November 13, 2024. https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics

Gap, Inc. 2023. “Gap Inc. Factory List March 2023.” Accessed November 12, 2023. Gapinc.com. https://www.gapinc.com/en-us/impact/esg-resources (Link: Factory List)

Gap, Inc. 2024. “Gap Inc. Reports Fourth Quarter and Fiscal 2023 Results; Provides Fiscal 2024 Outlook.” Gap.com. https://investors.gapinc.com/press-releases/news-details/2024/Gap-Inc.-Reports-Fourth-Quarter-and-Fiscal-2023-Results-Provides-Fiscal-2024-Outlook/default.aspx

Islam, Ashraful. 2019. “Life Cycle of Denim Jeans.” Textile Focus. https://textilefocus.com/life-cycle-denim-jeans/

Kibbe, Rachel. 2023. The United States’ Opportunity for Circular Fashion. American Circular Textiles. https://www.americancirculartextiles.com/act-policy-paper

Krueger, Jana. “The Power of Denim.” Food, Fiber, and Fashion Quarterly, 2020, 2. https://iu.pressbooks.pub/foodfiberfashionfa20/chapter/the-power-of-denim/

McKinsey & Company. 2023. “What is fast fashion?” McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-fast-fashion

Medinaceli, Agnes, Lykke E. Andersen, Marcelo Delajara, Richard Anker and Martha Anker. 2023. “Living Wage Update Report Minimum Wage Region 1, Vietnam.” Globallivingwage.org. https://globallivingwage.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Update-report_Vietnam_Region-1_2023_JUNE.pdf

Moin, David. 2024. “Richard Dickson, Gap Inc,’s Million-dollar Man.” Women’s Wear Daily. https://wwd.com/business-news/retail/richard-dickson-compensation-package-at-gap-inc-1236267546/

MSW Consultants. City of Philadelphia 2017 Residential Waste Composition Study. MSW Consultants. 2017.

MSW Consultants. Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection Waste Characterization Study Final Report. MSW Consultants. 2022. https://files.dep.state.pa.us/Waste/Recycling/RecyclingPortalFiles/Documents/2022/PA_DEP_Report_FINAL_10-04-2022.pdf

Ross, Emma. 2021. “Fast Fashion Getting Faster: A Look at the Unethical Labor Practices Sustaining a Growing Industry.” George Washington University Law School. https://studentbriefs.law.gwu.edu/ilpb/2021/10/28/fast-fashion-getting-faster-a-look-at-the-unethical-labor-practices-sustaining-a-growing-industry

Schumacher, Kelsea and Amanda L. Forster. 2022. Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles Workshop Report. Special Publication (NIST SP), National Institute of Standards and Technology. https://doi.org/10.6028/NIST.SP.1500-207, https://tsapps.nist.gov/publication/get_pdf.cfm?pub_id=934344

Solidarity Center. 2019. “Global Garment and Textile Industries: Workers, Rights and Working Conditions.” AFL-CIO. https://www.solidaritycenter.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Garment-Textile-Industry-Fact-Sheet.8.2019.pdf

Somekh, Simone. 2020. “Denim Jeans Market Report: 2019 Recap and 2020 Mind-Blowing Projections.” Revuze. https://www.revuze.it/blog/denim-jeans-market-report/

Tang, Kuok Ho Daniel. “State of the Art in Textile Waste Management: A Review.” Textiles, 2023, 3(4), 454-467. https://doi.org/10.3390/textiles3040027

Tonti, Lucianne. 2024. “‘It’s the industry’s dirty secret’: why fashion’s oversupply problem is an environmental disaster.” The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2024/jan/18/its-the-industrys-dirty-secret-why-fashions-oversupply-problem-is-an-environmental-disaster

UN Environment Programme. 2019. “Fashion’s tiny hidden secret.” UNEP. https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/fashions-tiny-hidden-secret

UN Environment Programme. 2019. “UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion addresses damage of ‘fast fashion’.” UNEP. https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/press-release/un-alliance-sustainable-fashion-addresses-damage-fast-fashion

War on Want. 2011. “Sweatshops in Bangladesh.” Waronwant.org https://waronwant.org/news-analysis/sweatshops-bangladesh

What is an implosion?

An implosion is a research method developed by professor Donna Haraway of University of California, Santa Cruz. Those who have used this method include educators, researchers, scientists, engineers, systems thinkers, activists who hope to sharpen their analysis of systems of oppression, and many others. Whereas an explosion is where bits of an object gets scattered about into little pieces making it difficult to analyze, an implosion allows a more controlled deconstruction making it easier to see how the object was constructed.

Interested in a teach-in of this implosion?

Contact programs@circularphiladelphia.org for more information

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